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When assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their humble place securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.